Figure-flattering designs and deft tailoring are traits we warmly associate with the Bottega Veneta woman. But this season, Tomas Maier infused these signatures with a subtle glamour and a touch of the avant-garde, adding strength and power to his quietly sophisticated pieces.
Citing a strong shoulder as the starting point for the collection, Maier’s opening look of a simple army green sweater, sported by model Eva Herzigova, featured exaggerated puffed sleeves. And worn with similarly shapely jodhpurs, this strong silhouette set the tone for what was to follow.
Belted waists helped create structure and shape and complemented the sharp shoulders, cinching soft cashmere coats, plush fur cover-ups and fluid forties-style day dresses alike.
Precision cut double-breasted coats and two-piece skirt suits peppered the runway, and in autumnal burnt oranges and golds they added a touch of spice to the season’s typically dark looks. But it was the appearance of Mariacarla Boscono in a black plunge neck jumpsuit and fellow model Birgit Kos in a slick black leather skirt suit that marked a move from Maier’s moniker of modern tailor into more avant-garde territory.
These more severe silhouettes were followed by the softer, but no less impactful day dresses. Reminiscent of those worn by forties film heroines they created a palpable stir, and fashioned in dusty blue, pink and yellow hues they brought a lightness to the collection. However, on closer inspection a smattering of studded embellishments could be seen, alluding to female strength and adding that touch of subtle glamour.
A clutch of spectacular floor-sweeping gowns in shimmering metallic shades closed the show, each one worthy of a red-carpet moment. They provided a fitting finale to a sophisticated and polished presentation that celebrated Maier’s much-loved brand of femininity.