Revisiting and reworking past seasons’ collections can polarise opinion. It can frustrate those who are seeking fresh ideas and new season inspiration, and in equal measure delight brand loyalists who crave the consistency of a signature aesthetic.
However, when Dries Van Noten confirmed to showgoers that he was about to present his 100th fashion show at Paris’ Bercy Arena this afternoon, the prospect of a look back to past collections, confirmed succinctly in the show notes, made for an emotional event that garnered a standing ovation.
The brand’s colossal print archive ensured a very varied presentation, which included the designer’s personal favorites. But this wasn’t a moment of simple reminiscence – these select fabrics had each been overprinted and embroidered with geometric shapes in vivid colours giving them a fresh AW17 twist.
The casting was befitting for such an occasion, with iconic models from the company’s early years in the 90s sharing the runway with fashion’s current faces.
This was an emotionally charged show from a much-loved and well-respected designer who has successfully stayed the course. But perhaps more importantly, continues to forge his own path.