Who is the Esteban Cortazar woman? According to the notes from Sunday evening’s Palais Des Beaux Arts show, she is "…daring, bold, real, full of reverie and – at times – austere", and it was this attraction of opposites that informed the young Colombian designer’s autumn/winter collection.
From the moment the first model stepped out onto the catwalk, the dual influences of freedom and restriction were clear - armour-like leather singlets held together by suspended threads or large metal rings, were paired with soft, velour knit skirts or wide-legged pants, or accessorized with fluffy Mongolian lamb-trimmed armlets.
Sleeves and hems seemed to unravel, leaving trailing tendrils in their wake, and those metal rings popped up again throughout the collection, adorning collarbones, wrists and even ankles.
Sharply cut, asymmetric knits and jackets were softened by fur-trimmed skirts or set against shimmering Atelier Swarovski separates, and the palette of predominantly earthy colors pimped with canary yellow and ‘Lil’ Kim-pink’.
This bold collection, with its experimental yet refreshing combinations, reflects Esteban Cortazar’s self-assuredness, and his designs continue to challenge fashion conventions in a surprisingly wearable way.