For all the creativity, experimentation and eclecticism that we see at London's fashion weeks, and while applauding the British capital's nurturing environment for young designers, at times there seems to be something missing. Joy. Romance. Generally speaking, emotion. This season, designer Roksanda Ilincic changed all that with her moving AW18 collection, and London Fashion Week's stiff upper lip began to soften.
While fashion is a great mirror of society at large, the societal goings-on of late have made designing womenswear a bit challenging, and perhaps made even the most confident designer question their messaging. But the outer world didn't seem to faze London-based Roksanda, who grew up in Belgrade, where she studied architecture alongside fashion. On Monday morning, she delivered a meticulously edited collection for women who know how to be all things. Not femme fatales. No forced androgyny. No trite tropes.
There was outerwear. Distinctly modern and voluminous - some may even say 'protective' - yet retaining its femininity with rich colors and textures.
There was bold funnel-like deconstructed pleating, something for the women who love the silhouettes and architectural elements of her design DNA.
Frothy tulle with large flat sequins in stunning sorbet shades brought the joy.
And then there was the craftsmanship. The closing look was ethereal and dream-like, with delicately flowing butterfly-like embroidery.
The benefits of London's democratic fashion environment are many, and while some may glean the impression of an erratic array of expressions, as LFW continues to evolve we're lucky to have Roksanda as a touchstone of femininity, feels, and grand design.