Since taking the helm at Maison Schiaparelli, creative director Bertrand Guyon has continued to successfully showcase the house’s illustrious heritage, while injecting some modern-day glamour into the revered label. And at his Spring/Summer 2018 presentation this week, which kicked off the Paris haute couture schedule, the Frenchman once again demonstrated deference mixed with forward-thinking design.
Taking founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s 1938 Pagan Collection as inspiration, which played with natural themes including blossom, leaves and insects, the show at Place Vendôme was a celebration of the natural world blended with classical European and tribal African references.
Insect-embroidered blouses and blazers, a black gauze ballgown adorned with gilded butterflies, and a floor-length hooded white dress that featured Swarovski mother-of-pearl lilies and irises, were a nod to the past.
The modern-day take on the season produced a clutch of designs with craft references that celebrated workmanship, as well as African culture. Highly embellished jackets belted over shorts were made from patchworks of snakeskin, raffia and silk fringing that made for a strong silhouette. And in direct contrast, tiered bustier dresses in sheer knitted nylon added a goddess-like lightness and transparency.
But no Schiaparelli show would be complete without a shot of shocking pink, or a witticism or two, and a layered tulle gown featuring a heart-shaped bodice combined these iconic house traits perfectly.