During her six-year tenure as creative director, Clare Waight Keller has continued to refine the sartorial essence of the Chloé brand, infusing it with a youthful spirit and a boyish take on tailoring.
Last season, the romantic codes that one readily associates with the house, though still in evidence, took on a more modern edge, with a collection that was slightly sharper and more structured than in the past. And today at her Autumn/Winter 2017 presentation, the outgoing designer continued to pare back the pretty in favour of a more understated aesthetic.
The collection had a nostalgic feel, courtesy of the sixties and seventies-inspired silhouettes and psychedelic prints. Flared v-neck pinafores in bouclé and glazed leather were styled with butterfly-wing or lavaliere bow-collared blouses, and lace-trim slip dresses peaked out from beneath the swirling patterns of mohair intarsia knits.
Colours were predominantly muted, in keeping with the familiar Chloé palette, with earthy shades including ochre and tobacco contrasting with icy pastels of mint, peach and lilac.
Curiously, there was a marked absence of floor-length frills and feminine frou, beloved of brand loyalists. Alternative evening options to above the knee were limited to a single sheer white sheath adorned with stars and a teal blue one piece with tiered sleeves. A further nod in the direction of commerciality perhaps?
At the time of writing, Clare Waight Keller’s successor has yet to be announced. It will be interesting to see how the wardrobe of the quintessential Chloé girl will continue to evolve under the new creative director.
Photos: madame.lefigaro.fr / vogue.com