For some, Milan’s star in fashion’s firmament has not shone as brightly as the other fashion capitals’ in recent years. But the Italian city is now generating a significant buzz, with established designers and brands leading the way. Here are our show highlights.
Dolce & Gabbana
Religion and its iconography have been ever-present themes woven through the Italian duo’s shows year on year, but for autumn/winter 2018, the church, and specifically Catholicism, featured front and center. Entitled Fashion Devotion, and with a baroque backdrop reminiscent of Palermo’s Oratorio di Santa Cita chapel, models paraded the runway in t-shirts and embroidered sweatshirts brazenly bearing religious slogans and appliqués. But these were tempered with more subtle nods to the theme, with tailored trouser suits, in cardinal red, exquisitely crafted from sumptuous brocades, and floor-sweeping coats no doubt inspired by religious robes.
Alessandro Michele’s now familiar eclectic Gucci aesthetic took on new meaning this season, as a commentary on how we construct our identities. Models walked through an operating theatre-style set dressed in clothes culled from many cultures, which saw Russian headscarves, knitted and lace balaclavas and Major League Baseball caps paired with everything from sober suiting and heavily-printed folk dresses to Chinese pyjamas and 80s-inspired evening wear. But it was the unusual accessories that garnered the most attention, with replica heads tucked under the arms of several models and others cradling reptiles, including a baby dragon.
Opening Milan Fashion Week, Moncler staged an eight-collection showcase, which included designs by Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli and Simone Rocha. “A Republic of imagination” is how the brand described this new Moncler Genius project, which will see each of the eight unique collections rolled out one at a time on a monthly basis. For his part, Pierpaolo Piccioli took the down jacket as his starting point, which he transformed into padded capes and cropped styles cut into flared silhouettes. When crafted in black and white, the pieces had a distinctly monastic tone, but layered in contrasting colors they took on a rather charming, much softer feel.
In a collection defined by opposites, Miuccia Prada used her autumn/winter show to explore the contradictions of extreme power and extreme femininity. Set against a dark industrial backdrop, models wore a mix of fluorescent hi-tech and padded-sportswear pieces paired with the more pretty, crafted from flowers, bows and sequins. Tulle petticoats peaked out from beneath heavy-duty outerwear, and traditional tweeds were layered with strapless cocktail dresses. The designer also played with shape, with both streamlined silhouettes and oversized styles sharing the runway.
Photos: vogue.com / wwd.com