We asked Byronesque co-founder and vintage fashion authority Gill Linton to reveal the criteria behind future vintage-defined clothing, and share the three current fashion collections she feels are worthy of the moniker.
After years as accidental fashion historians, we designed the first ever criteria to determine which new designs you’ll wish you bought and kept in 15 + years time.
While it’s easy for us to award our future vintage seal of approval to current collections, choosing only three pieces from all of fashion today for this piece has thrown us into a state of paralysis.
And so, albeit unashamedly, we’re including the usual suspects. Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga, Alessandro Michele’s Gucci and a special homage to Riccardo Tisci.
In the same way we hope that a fashion journalist’s review is objective and not based on personal bias or bribes, our choices for future vintage are only biased in as much as they fit into our ‘new generation of vintage fashion’ category. A new generation that is judged by creative rebellion and influence in culture as much as it is design.
How we judge future vintage:
- Does it stand out as being remarkable in overall style or detail?
- Is there a cultural energy behind it and what its story represents?
- Does it represent an important moment in fashion history?
- For heritage brands, is it different enough from its own vintage archives?
- Will people reference and talk about it in 15 years time?
- Does it say ‘you can’t sit with us’?
- Does it say ‘we don’t look like anyone else’?
THE LOTTA EFFECT: BALENCIAGA PRE-FALL, 2017
Demna Gvasalia and Lotta Volkova created a necessary and palpable shift in fashion at a time when it had lost its soul. I’m not here to argue the merits of Martin Margiela’s influence that made Vetements the phenomenon it is, but while I am here, it’s worth noting, whether you’re on the side of ‘the Margiela Redux’ or not, that these guys filled a void when Maison Margiela had evolved into something different.
Not so long ago it used to be that the designer and CEO were the rock stars, (think Jacobs & Duffy and Yves & Pierre). Today it’s the designer and the stylist and there’s no denying the influence that Demna and Lotta have had on fashion and culture today. When the biggest names in fashion follow your design and style cues, you’re doing a lot right. With that said, the Lotta Granny look has become such an overfamiliar one across many design houses that it’s inevitably going to run its natural course anytime soon. Until then and while it’s energetically still lifting the ‘you can’t sit with us’ middle finger for Balenciaga, we fully support this ‘Luxe Gran’ look from Pre-Fall, 2017. This is the collection you’ll remember for when Balenciaga royally got it’s cool back and possibly the one before Lotta took a new direction?
NORTHERN SOUL SOCKS: GUCCI PRE-FALL, 2017
How much of Gucci’s collection is actually wearable, at least at any one time without looking like a Gucci victim, is debatable. But what isn’t up for debate is the genius of Alessandro Michele’s creative partnership with Glen Luchford. The Northern Soul video is flawless in casting, location, music and filmography, so much so that it has defined fashion in 2017 better and more than any other brand. Period. And the defining item is a pair of socks.
In the ‘80s, Gucci, among other luxury brands, totally screwed up and over licensed their accessories business to the masses, ruining the cache of the logo until they bought it all back and started again: the irony is that those ‘vintage’ pieces are now worn ‘ironically’ by fashion hipsters, and, with no judgment, both are symbols of significant moments in fashion culture. Thanks to Michele, the logo is back with more cache and cool than when P Diddy et al went all out gauche in the early ‘00s, (another important moment in fashion history not to be underestimated). Exactly like these Gucci logo socks. Not to be underestimated. Wear them with your fake Gucci slides, in fact buy a second pair and keep them in the box. You will be rewarded for acknowledging the significance of authentic fake fashion design. Get your head around that if you can.
GIVENCHY’S SOVIETESQUE REDUX: FALL 2017
The end of a design era is an obvious pause to award something as being future vintage. Especially after a 12 year tenure by one of the most influential and respected designers of a major heritage brand. Rumors aside about the quick exit of Tisci, the brands quick response to Fall 2017 is an honorable homage.
The press notes will have you believe that this greatest hits redux was a selection of pieces that gave life to the heritage of Hubert de Givenchy’s most famous design tropes reimagined through Tisci’s eyes. This may be true, and while we are the first to acknowledge the importance of a brand’s design heritage, Givenchy belongs to Tisci. This re-issue collection has increased the demand and value of the originals, themselves now future vintage icons. As much as we hate to admit it, there is also a Kardashian effect in play here. You can’t objectively talk about future vintage and ignore Kim’s ambassadorship of the brand. Kimye will be a significant moment in fashion history. We look forward to looking back on that.
Fall 2013 was a big fashion moment for Bambi and the rise of the luxury sweatshirt. This was one of the most popular fashion editor staples of the decade. This Fall 2017 collection is remarkable for how cleverly the design team creatively problem solved their way out of a season without Tisci. Regardless, our money is still on the original.
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